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Anduril - The paddle that was broken... (Read 2559 times)
Joel F.
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Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Feb 22
nd
, 2008, 11:07am
Last year the U.S. Postal Service did a stress test on one of our Greenland paddles and broke it in half, right at the shoulder, where the loom (handle) meets the blade. I cleaned up the break and reforged the paddle using epoxy thickened with cedar dust, encased the fracture in a fiberglass sleeve, named it
Anduril
, and paddled with it all summer long.
Anduril after the first reforging.
Then, at the pool this winter, the paddle broke again while I was recovering from a sculling brace. When I got home, I pulled the paddle apart and found that the joint was epoxy starved. I had used regular epoxy and I suspect that enough of the epoxy drained out of the joint while it was curing overnight and weakened what should have been an unbreakable joint. The fiberglass had held it for a while, but over time the stress was too much and it tore all the way through, all the way around.
So, now it's time to reforge the paddle again.
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Joel F.
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #1 -
Feb 22
nd
, 2008, 1:00pm
Sorry, I don't have any pics of the paddle in two pieces. In order to properly reforge it, I took some scissors and shredded some carbon fiber into a cup. All of the pieces were between 1/8" and 1/4". To avoid epoxy starvation in the joint, I mixed the carbon fiber pieces into some 30 minute epoxy. I ended up with what looked like a dark grey fur ball about the size of a golf ball.
I divided the fur ball up into three or four pieces and stuffed these into the two halves of the paddle, stuck it together, and then stood and held it for thirty minutes until the epoxy set. After it had set enough for me to let go of the two halves, I stood it up in the corner so it could finish curing. AFter that I was left with sharp hairs sticking out all the way around. I trimmed them as closely as I could, then sanded the carbon fiber down to the same level as the surface of the paddle.
The fracture, repaired with epoxy thickened with carbon fiber
Next up, I needed to remove the white epoxy tips from the ends of the paddle. I held the tip over the burner of my Coleman gas stove, just long enough for it to turn the color of a toasted marshmellow, then scraped it off with a gasket scraper. It peeled right off with no problems.
The white tips removed
Dressed in Kevlar/Carbon Fiber, waiting for epoxy
Closeup
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Joel F.
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Kandykornhead
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #2 -
Feb 23
rd
, 2008, 9:24am
Is it getting shorter every time? What is the overall length compared to new?
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #3 -
Feb 23
rd
, 2008, 10:26am
No, it's the same length now as it was when I first repaired it. The break was in the same place, so it involved only putting the two pieces back together at the joint. It is one inch shorter than when it was handed over to the Post Office so they could break it.
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Joel F.
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Mark_H.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #4 -
Feb 23
rd
, 2008, 2:25pm
if you haven't epoxied the sheathing on yet, i could glue/inlay a 1/2" thick spline of ash through the break the next time you're here. it would definitey make the joint much more fail-safe. it would take much time either.
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #5 -
Feb 23
rd
, 2008, 3:48pm
That would have been the way to go the first time. I'm not worried about it now, as the wood is more the form for the Kevlar/Carbon Fiber and it's a heavyweight fabric (9 oz.).
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Joel F.
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #6 -
Mar 28
th
, 2008, 10:32am
Sliding the Kevlar/Carbon sleeve over the paddle.
Showing the difference between the size of the sleeve and the paddle shaft. It's a three inch sleeve and the paddle shaft is about 1 3/4 inches across.
Pulling on both ends of the sleeve snugs it down to the size of the shaft.
The Food Saver:
Using epoxy to wet out the sleeve. I used a lot of epoxy because kevlar and carbon fiber are both known for being difficult to wet out. Plus, the vacuum bag would squeeze out the uneeded epoxy.
While it's brown in the bucket, the epoxy dries clear.
Vacuum bagged:
You can see the excess epoxy squeezed out to the sides:
After the paddle is removed from the bag, the extra epoxy makes it look as though it still is in the bag. The excess resin tears off easily and then is trimmed with a knife or a sander. I used a saber saw to trim the kevlar from the ends of the paddle.
Putting on the finishing coat of epoxy. Foam brushes are a bad idea for this step because after you've smoothed out the epoxy for the hundredth time, the foam brush starts to disintegrate and leave little black foam pieces in the epoxy, which requires more sanding later.
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«
Last Edit: Apr 11
th
, 2008, 10:16am by Joel F.
»
Joel F.
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #7 -
Apr 10
th
, 2008, 11:35pm
Because it's a carbon fiber paddle, I wanted to put black caps on the ends of the paddle, instead of the Greenland standard white tips. I had planned to use graphite mixed into epoxy, but, I was out of graphite powder. Then, at the hardware store, I came across small tubs of epoxy mixed with kevlar fibers, that dries a gunmetal grey color. Perfect!
When I opened the tubs, the resin and the hardener were more like paste, so I heated the tubs in some almost boiling water, then poured out equal amounts into a plastic cup. I also mixed in some black tint to darken it up a bit.
I masked off the area I wanted to cover and painted it on with a cheap chip brush. The epoxy was still very paste like, so once I painted it on, it didn't run or drip. It did, however, self-level in the sense that, after several minutes the brush strokes disappeared, which was nice.
Freshly coated and the blue tape removed:
The other end of the paddle after the epoxy has cured.
I have to coat the flip side tomorrow, then, hopefully, I'll be able to give it a try at the pool on Friday night.
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Joel F.
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #8 -
Apr 11
th
, 2008, 10:42pm
Well, I gave Anduril it's inaugural paddling this evening, rolled with it several times and did a lot of bracing. It has almost no flex, and feels like you're paddling with a steel bar as opposed to a piece of wood. I mean that in a good way, although, as some have noted in the past, there's something nice and warm about a piece of cedar in your hands as opposed to a composite paddle.
But, I give it two thumbs up. I even made my offside roll with it this evening, which is a first without wet exiting or having to switch to the strong side to come back up.
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Joel F.
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elver
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #9 -
May 6
th
, 2009, 5:43am
Hey Joel,
I was out paddling last night and thought, wouldnt it be great to make one of my greenland paddles from foam core and then sock it with carbon. Anyway a qucik google later and there yours is!!
So I've got a list of questions... (i'm a custom greenland paddle builder in Australia by the way - freight was way too expensive to buy a paddle so I made my own and now make them for others here.)
Hows it performing?
Can you get a nice fine sharp edge with this method? I like a fine edged blade (say 4mm at the entry point max - see elverpaddles.com for details.)
What weight carbon sock do you use?
Would I need a heavier weight with a foam or balsa wood 'mold'?
Many thanks in advance,
Tom
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Joel F.
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #10 -
May 6
th
, 2009, 10:07am
Welcome to our forum! I checked out your paddles on your website. Very nice.
It sounds like you got into business much the same as we did, too expensive to buy, so make it yourself, then make them available to others.
As to how it performs, I use this paddle almost exclusively. I hate to scratch up my "pretty" wooden paddle. I don't worry about it with the CF/Kevlar paddle. I also like the fact that there is no flutter or flex when I scull or roll. It feels as though all of my effort is transferred to the water.
The CF/Kevlar sleeve is 9oz fabric.
The edges are as sharp as the paddle that I used for the core, which is pretty sharp, although I haven't measured it.
We're planning on making a foam cored paddle using the same method. The strength of the core shouldn't make much difference once the cloth and epoxy are together and set. Some guys make hollow cored paddles using carbon fiber. If I were worried about it I would use two sleeves, maybe a lighter fiberglass sleeve, then the CF/Kevlar over that.
Keep us posted on how it turns out.
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Joel F.
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elver
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Re: Anduril - The paddle that was broken...
Reply #11 -
May 6
th
, 2009, 5:56pm
Thanks Joel,
I've got my favorite paddle with a strees fracture that needs 'rebirthing'.
That wil be my first attempt. Now to find the carbon kavlar in Australia... and the vacuum bag gear too..
Once I do that I'll try a foam core too.
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