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Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008 (Read 1298 times)
Joel F.
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Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Aug 9th, 2008, 1:44pm
 
I just got back last night from the Apostle Islands in Northern Wisconsin.  We spent four days paddling the islands on Lake Superior and put over forty miles under our keels.  You can see the complete route that we took on the map below.
 

 
Day 1:
 
After checking in at the Apostle Island's Visitor's Center in Bayfield, Wisconsin, to pick up our camping permits, we drove up to Sand Point, where we broke out the tools in the parking lot and finished the deck rigging on Mark K.'s kayak.

 
 
We finally put in between 3:30 and 4pm for the long paddle to Rocky Island, which was our first campsite for the week.  Here are Mark H. and Mark K. on Sand Pt. Beach getting ready to leave.

 
Mark H. paddles out of Sand Bay, rounding Sand Point.  Since he wasn't able to get his kayak skinned in time for the trip, he borrowed a fiberglass Pintail kayak from Don G.  The fit was a bit tight and, as a result made for a little unsteady ride for most of the trip.  He handled some rough water, though, and never capsized.

 
An immature bald eagle on the rocks on Sand Point.  This was one of six that we saw total for the trip.

 
Mark and Mark on the crossing to Bear Island, where we took our rest stop on the way to Rocky Island.

 
The famous Raspberry Island Lighthouse.  Had we left in th emorning as planned, this would have been our first rest stop.  This is the closest we came to it.

 
Is that a ghost ship?  No, it's the Pride of Baltimore, a tall ship that was sailing the area.

 
During the crossing, Mark H. began to cramp up and became nauseous due to dehydration.  We rafted up and I gave him the last of my water and he was able to make it to Bear Island, where we pumped some water through the water filter and rehydrated.  
 
Here, the sun beams shine down on Mark as he closes in on his rest stop.

 

 
Our rest stop on the southern tip of Bear Island.  Originally we had wanted to camp here, but when we called for reservations the week before, there was no room for us there.

 
Rested up, we made the crossing from Bear Island to Rocky Island.  We had also planned to visit Devil's Island, but this was as close as we came to it.

 
This is me with Devil's Island in the background.

 
Well, we did get a little closer to Devil's Island...

 
The sun sets behind Mark H. as we draw closer to Rocky Island.  We arrived at the island just at dusk, with very little idea of where to go to find our campsite.  As you can see from the map, we went up and down the beach a couple of times looking for Campsite #7.  We finally found it, right next to #6.

 
After paddling up and down the beach a couple of times, we finally left two of the kayaks at the dock.  After we found our site, I hiked back to the kayaks and hooked the towline to Mark K.'s and paddled back with both kayaks, while he stayed at camp and started a campfire.
 
Mark H. cooked up the first of a number of great, hot meals for us.  He gets my vote for permanent camp cook.
 

 
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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2008, 11:04am by Joel F. »  

Joel F.
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Joel F.
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Re: Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Reply #1 - Aug 9th, 2008, 10:23pm
 
Tuesday, Day 2:
 

 
With just a quick one mile crossing from Rocky Island to South Twin Island, the second day was an easy one.  Mark K. had only slept forty minutes in the last twenty four hours, so we decided to let him sleep in.  He had done a marathon drive from St. Louis to his home in Chicago to pick up his kayak and gear, then up to Bloomer, Wisconsin, to Mark H.'s house, then up to Bayfield to paddle fourteen miles.
 
Here's 2/3's of our camp.  I was the first up, rekindled the fire, then jumped in the Lake to wash off and wake up.  Breakfast was two packets of oatmeal and some tuna.    

 
Here, Mark K., also known as "Capt. Caveman," emerges from his sleep.

 
Here's the entire camp.  There was an outhouse behind the camera, shared by our camp and the next site, which was vacant.  

 
Mark H., aka, "Hambo," on the one mile crossing.  

 
Caveman on the crossing.  The water was a little bit lively and became moreso the closer we got to South Twin Island.  By the time we got there small breakers were hitting the shore.  Caveman and I played in the waves a little bit on the other side while Hambo scouted out the campsite.  We were right up from the island dock, where Maxi the Black Lab and her owners were camped in their powerboat.

 
As noted, we had some time on Tuesday, so we went rock picking, looking for agates, ate lunch, then headed around the island to look for more rocks.  Here I am headed for the north side of the island.  I let Hambo try out the Greenland paddle, so I used his Euro blade.

 
Caveman and I in our Madeline 16's on a mirror calm early evening headed around the island.  Note how shallow it was there.  Little did I know...

 
Headed back to camp.  We went most of the way around the island, then turned around and paddled all the way back.  Had we been paying attention to the map, it would have been shorter to finish circumnavigating the island.

 
Paddling off into the sunset.

 
Caveman after doing some rolling practice.  I stood by for a bow rescue, but he didn't need it.  He did three rolls, two on one side and one on the other.  

Click this link for some video of the roll.
 
What a peaceful scene, until...I hit a submerged rock right after this pic was taken, and high centered my kayak on a huge boulder.  After frantically trying to avoid falling sideways off of it, I was able to spin the kayak around and slid off, leaving a lot of white vinyl on the rock.  There were no holes, though, just jangled nerves.

 
Hambo stands by to assist as I try to avoid falling off of the boulder, desparately using my paddle to pole off of the bottom.

 
See how many faces you can find in the smoke.

 
The firepit.

 
 
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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2008, 11:55am by Joel F. »  

Joel F.
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Re: Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Reply #2 - Aug 10th, 2008, 2:09pm
 
Wednesday, Day 3:
 

 
The day started out a little breezy, with a bit of chop on the Lake.  NOAA predicted that the waves would die down later in the day, so we decided to wait a couple of hours before we launched.  Hambo acquired a new pet while we were waiting.  The night before and that day, whenever he would go down by the Lake, a goose would swim in and follow him around.  We named it George.

 

 
We visited with Wes and his wife and Maxi the dog, as they prepared to motor back to Bayfield to pick up some ice.  After a cigar, we packed up and hit the water.  We planned to go for Stockton Island by way of Ironwood as our rest stop.

 

 
It turns out that this worked out very well.  By the time we got to Ironwood Island, a thunderstorm had come up behind us.  

 
Mark and Joel crossing to Ironwood Island.

 
After we landed on the beach, Caveman decided to try his hand at rolling the fiberglass kayak, tried once, missed, went down, tried again, missed again.  He pulled his head out of the water and said, "Help me!"  We would have been glad to, but we were on shore and he was in ten feet of water.  He wet exited and I hopped in my kayak and paddled out and towed him in.  

 

 
By that time there was some lightning flashing, so we grabbed the cookpot, some coffee, and a tent and prepared to wait out the storm.  We didn't need the tent, but we did build a fire, made some coffee, and smoked another stogie.  

 

 
The clouds and lightning passed, but the waves stayed up for another hour, then it calmed down and we paddled out again, this time for a four mile crossing to Stockton Island.
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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2008, 11:27am by Joel F. »  

Joel F.
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Re: Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Reply #3 - Aug 10th, 2008, 7:03pm
 
Taking a break at Campsite 21 on Stockton Island, we don't notice the weather coming up behind us.

 
Getting ready to head around Stockton to our campsite.

 
After we left the beach on the north side of Stockton Island, we headed for the east side of the island, with its sea caves and sea stacks.  

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The sea caves and stacks were amazing, but, at the time we had other things to worry about.  There was a BIG thunderstorm headed our way, moving very rapidly, according to the radio, with high winds, brief showers, and dangerous lightning.  We had to get off the water.  The problem was, this is a three mile section of cliffs, with no beaches.
 
It didn't make us any more comfortable when a nasty cloud, two shades from turning green, rolled over the top of the cliff.  
 

 
The leading edge of the storm heads south.

 
I prayed, "Lord, give us a place to get off the water!"  Then I turned a corner and saw this beach.  There was no shelter, but at least there were no overhanging rocks.  We pulled up on the beach and broke out our rain gear.

 

 
We were weighing our options for camping here on the beach or making a run for Julian Bay when a rainbow appeared.  Hambo said, "There must be sun somewhere back there!"  Sure enough, patches of blue sky began to appear to the north as the storm headed south and east.

 
The rainbow turned to a double rainbow, then was flirting with a triple and quadruple rainbow, although they never fully materialized.

 


 
When we got back on the water the rainbow stayed with us for most of the rest of evening, until the sun began to set.  

 
The remnants of a storm.  Cool clouds.

 
Paddling into the sunset, yet again.  

 
We made camp at 10pm, in the dark.

 

 
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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2008, 11:28am by Joel F. »  

Joel F.
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Re: Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Reply #4 - Aug 11th, 2008, 10:22pm
 
Thursday, Day 4:
 

 
Camp on Stockton Island.  I was sleeping in the eight foot Eureka yellow sarcophagus.  It wasn't too bad, except that you couldn't sit up inside it.

 
The four mile crossing to Madeline was the roughest of any of the days we had paddled.  Currents and waves funnel between the various islands and meet in the middle, making for a very confused sea with one to two foot waves.  Throw some wakes from powerboats in the mix and you have a fun ride!

 
Our host on Madeline Island, Jay, showed up a little ways down the beach, so I decided to paddle over sit-on-top style.

 
Transportation for three kayaks from the landing site on the north side of the island back to Jay's property near LaPointe.

 
Does it look like I got a little bit of sun this week?

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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2008, 11:29am by Joel F. »  

Joel F.
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Re: Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Reply #5 - Aug 13th, 2008, 11:44pm
 
Thursday, Day 4, Continued:
 
After we cleaned up in the Lake and changed into our town clothes, we hit the Pub on Madeline Island for some steaks.  I'm on the left, Hambo is in the middle, and our host, Famous Jay, is on the right.

 
After the steaks, we visited the docks.

 
Then it was off to Tom's Twice Burned Bar for drinks and live music.
 

 
 

 

 
-----
 
Friday, Day 5
 
The next morning it was lunch at the Bell Street Bar and Restaurant.

 

 

 
Then a visit to the outhouse at Jay's place...

 
Then it was off to the ferry.  We paddled across from Madeline to the mainland a couple of years ago, so we figured we had nothing to prove.  Plus, the ferry was only $5.75/person, including our kayaks.

 

 

 

 
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« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2008, 11:30am by Joel F. »  

Joel F.
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Joel F.
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Re: Apostle Islands, Wisconsin 2008
Reply #6 - Aug 14th, 2008, 11:30am
 
Thanks to Chicago_Mark for some of the above pics.  They've been interspersed through the narrative in their proper places, so you'll want to go back to the top and review the pics in case you missed the new ones.
 
I'd have to say that Mark K. was really an ironman on our paddles.  Except for questioning our navigation and constantly checking to see if he had cellphone service out on the Lake, Mark paddled without complaint through all kinds of conditions.  Just when we thought he might be superhuman, he finally complained about blisters on his hands on Wednesday night.
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